Anatoly Modestovich is a legend at Odesa’s Privoz Market, where he has been selling fish for some thirty years. Here’s his recipe using his beloved sprats. He calls the sandwich “loaders” because sprats are the cheapest of foods, which can so well feed the men working to load and off-load the produce trucks arriving at the market each morning. It’s the perfect quick lunch for the workers (and goes especially well with a shot of vodka too). When you buy fresh sprats from one
