Olga is an artist and rose to prominence through her beautiful drawings of borsch. This recipe for dumplings is one she enjoyed as a little girl whenever she went to stay with her grandmother. There’s an ongoing debate, both in their family and in Odesa at large, about the correct name for this dish—some call it strudel, while others call it noodly. But what is clear is that it hails from nineteenth-century Germany, when many Prussians came to settle in Odesa. It’s a perfec
