We began our cooking session with Olya by going to a flea market. Her late mother always made apricot jam in a huge brass basin, which has long since gone missing. Olya was determined to replicate the process of making her mum’s recipe down to the last detail and, luckily, we found exactly the right pot. Cooking and then canning apricots is still a popular pastime in Ukraine. In and around Odesa, people prepare this recipe with the kernels of apricot pits,