Kedgeree of smoked haddock

This dish, far simpler than the foregoing, carries with it fond memories of my childhood breakfasts. Our sense of taste is so closely allied with our sense of smell, and one mouthful takes me back to Ootacamund in the Nilgiris: valleys full of arum lilies, wood-smoke stealing up the steep hillsides, and a steaming dish of haddock kedgeree on the snowy-white breakfast tablecloth.