Ham, lord of the breakfast sideboard

The cooked ham was the splendid standby of the house-party breakfast in India, elevating all the surrounding dishes, hiding under their silver covers, to the level of its own importance. In fact, this lordly hunk of delicate pink meat was indispensable to the tables of the British, appearing in different guises for breakfast, tiffin and dinner. At breakfast, gammon was generally served cold, pristine and free from all fol-de-rols and garnishes save for a light coat of breadcrumbs. Th