Podpłomyk is an ancient flatbread, exceedingly simple to make. According to the chef Piotr Wójcik, who serves a yogurt-based and flame-grilled version in his Warsaw restaurant, you can find a thousand recipes for the same thing. The most authentic, he says, is a simple lavash-style with no more ingredients than flour, water, and salt. Michał Pajdosz, a natural winemaker in the Silesian village of Jakubów, who just happens to also be a scholar of the ancient