Kaiser Rolls

If you’re from Boston like me, you’d call these bulkie rolls. It’s a regional quirk. I always figured it was because the buns were, well, bulky. Not quite. Years later I was in Warsaw and walked into a milk bar—the Bar Mleczny Rusałka in the Praga district, to be precise. Milk bars are traditional Polish cafeterias and the menus tend to be tiny-lettered affairs hung on the wall. Without thinking, I ordered a żurek—a soup—and a roll. Except I didn’t know the word for roll in Polish. But it w