There’s nothing in Zosia Barto’s Kraków bakery, Zaczyn Piekarnia, that tells you her unbelievably soft drożdżowe—chałka and yeast pastries— are vegan. Though most of what she does is naturally plant-based, she never advertises it. Zosia says modestly, “If it’s good, it’s good.” Some customers know her bakes are vegan, some don’t, and that speaks to the quality of her dairy-free and eggless dough. Poland, a country known for smoked meats and infinite incarna
