When I brought my vegetarian friend Dave to dim sum for the first time, he was pleasantly surprised to see the array of meatless dumpling options going around in the carts. All of my non-Chinese friends make me do the ordering at dim sum (even though I can’t even speak Chinese!), and I load up on as many veggie dumplings as I do the meat or seafood kind, because they’re so healthy, fresh and flavorful. This recipe, loaded with umami flavor from the shiitakes, is inspired by