There is an old-school style of Thai cooking known as bolan that dates back to ancient times. On my last visit to Thailand, I met and cooked in the home of Chef Cherwan Bunnag, a fellow Thai chef whose family lineage is connected to Thai royalty. One of the bolan dishes we made was watermelon cubes tossed with a sugary, salty crumble made from dried fish floss. It may sound strange, but trust me, this salty, sweet combo is irresistible. It sort of reminds me of the c