Pork braised in kecap manis

The island of Bali is never quiet, its soundtrack punctuated by gamelan music, roaring motorbikes, chirping geckos, the spluttering oil of street food vendors and the chatter of tourists. All except for one day, the annual festival of Nyepi, when the island falls silent. The airport is closed, everyone stays at home and lights are kept low so that demons are tricked into believing the island is uninhabited and stay away for another year. As there is no cooking on the day of silence, a dish