The crowning glory of Balinese cuisine is babi guling, a perfectly crackled, spice-scented, spit-roasted suckling pig. The whole pig is stuffed with a turmeric-gold paste known as basa gede or ‘big spice mix’. Such a feast is usually saved for big events: weddings, funerals and tooth filing ceremonies are all cause to pig out. Here is my scaled-down version for the home cook, so there is no need to wait for a celebration.