Every year in San Sebastián there is a fiercely contested prize for the very best pincho on offer. Patxi and Blanca, the husband and wife team at the Bar Bergara are always among the hot favourites with their elegant, new-wave nibbles. The counter is crammed with tiny tarts, croquettes, stuffed croissants and bread, precariously piled with goodies. As if this were not enough, there is also a small blackboard of hot pinchos made to order. This is one