Moorish Meat Kebabs

Pinchos Morunos can be found all over Spain, their delicious aromatic spicing harks back to centuries of Moorish rule. One of my favourite haunts is the Café Iruña in Bilbao, a belle époque gem of arabesque archways and glorious Spanish tiles. Here the waft of freshly cooked lamb and cumin is irresistible as Ahamed Belkhir, seated in his own corner of the bar, carefully turns kebabs over the hot coals as he has done for the last 35 years.