Red Mullet with a Pepper and Caper Vinaigrette

This recipe was inspired by a trip to a very smart restaurant, the Real Balneario, set on the beach at Salinas in Asturias. It was an odd sensation; all buttoned up in an air-conditioned dining room amidst suited gentlemen and coiffed ladies, with oiled bathers lying at an arm’s length on the other side of the huge glass window.

A nearby pair of excruciatingly small trunks were nearly enough to put me off my lunch, but then the red mullet arrived and I was thankfully transported to