Fillet of Dover Sole with Artichokes, Curly Endive and Ñora Pepper Broth

The low, winter sun glinted on the Mediterranean as a chef scuttled out into the restaurant garden below and snatched some fresh herbs. The scene was set for one of the most memorable feasts I have ever eaten. The Restaurante San Pau, on the Catalan Costa Brava, is a Mecca for lovers of the local Mediterranean cuisine and Carmen Rusculleda, the chef, gives everything her own very personal creative twist.

The eight-course tasting menu was preceded by four glorious tapas de aperiti