Yogurt Mousse with Bilberries and Pacharán

This pudding is my own simplified rendition of a gloriously light dessert that I ate in the Asador Matxete, in Vitoria, the Basque capital. The place is a carnivore’s paradise. Pudding needed to be light after a Desperate Dan-size T-bone steak, the chuletón: the speciality of the house, cooked over coals.

The mountains of northern Spain are covered in wild bilberries during the summer. I remember entire afternoons spent on hands and knees as a teenager in the Pyrenean foothil