This dish is adored equally on both sides of the Channel. It is hard to find top-quality calves’ liver, unless you know the farmer or your butcher has a good supplier, but it is well worth the search – calves’ liver should be firm in texture and milky in colour. The success of your dish depends both on the quality of the liver and the way in which you cook it. Here it is simply pan-fried and served with a caper and herb butter, some delicious creamy mashed potatoes and warm, zesty buttered spinach. So easy to prepare, and really satisfying. I am a happy man.