It was Grand-Mère Suzanne who taught me how to make food for the chickens on the farm – cooked jacket potatoes, still warm, crushed together with grain and water by hand. I can still remember how sore my hands would get after a while. Once made, we would put the mix in the tray and call the chickens by shouting “piu, piu, piu”. They would all charge over, clucking in anticipation. When the chickens had devoured the mix, we would throw them some corn, too. All this was done twice a day – now that’s the way to treat chickens! We fed them well knowing that one day they were going to feed us, and when it was time to put them in the pot we didn’t feel too sad, as we knew it was just nature taking its course. This is a very traditional recipe, normally prepared with baby chicken called poussin, however, you could also use guinea fowl for a change – an often forgotten poultry that is quite delicious. Here I’ve used one larger chicken to serve four.