This is a dish that used to be on the table very often during the hunting season, as Papa went shooting twice a week. He was a very good shot and loved it, so we always had game to eat and a full freezer for the rest of the year. Preparing this dish was very much Maman’s domain and speciality, but I used to help a lot and really enjoyed preparing the vegetables for the roast to come. This is a simple dish, but to get it right it requires attention and you need young game for tenderness. This version is only rubbed quickly with oil and sea salt and is missing a classic red wine marinade, which, generally, I would reserve for older game – grand veneur.