Pour 2½ glasses water into a saucepan and measure with a spill. Add ¾ lb sugar in pieces, that is 2¼ glasses, the zest of 1 lemon, and 10 sheets of broken gelatin. Boil until the gelatin dissolves and add the juice from 2 lemons, strained through very fine muslin so that no pits fall in. Measure with a spill. If necessary cook a little longer, otherwise immediately strain. Add 1½ glasses any kind of white wine, sherry, Madeira, sauternes, or Rhine wine to make a total of 4 glasses of liquid. Pour into a mold and set it on ice or snow.
To color this jelly golden, add a piece of caramelized sugar; to color it red, add 7 sheets white gelatin and 3 sheets red.