Prepare 9–12 glasses fish broth from root vegetables using 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, 1 celery root, 1 leek, 1–2 onions, 5–15 black peppercorns, 2–3 bay leaves, and 3 to 6 lbs ruff. Boil a full hour until everything is very tender, then strain the broth. To serve, garnish with parsley and dill. Add several seeded lemon slices and, if desired, ½ or 1 glass sauternes or champagne or even Madeira or sherry. Serve pirozhki separately.