Moussaka

There was once - sadly she is gone - a food writer, well known in the Seventies, called Marika Hanbury-Tenison. I always thought this friend of my mother’s was called Moussaka Hanbury-Tenison, which did seem very odd to me. But then grown-ups were strange.

I really like Greece, with the unmistakable smell of its arid coastal mountains thick with parched herbs, the squint white walls, sugar-lump houses and cold amber retsina. Greek food, though, gets