Porchetta

Late morning on a wet, grey day somewhere outside Bagni di Lucca in Tuscany, I passed what I thought was an ice-cream van and immediately pulled over with pistachio-flavoured thoughts. I dashed across the road to find the counter window filled by a rotund little man in a paper cap, standing behind not sugar cones but the most splendid piece of crisp, red-skinned, stuffed pork. I bought some in bread and ate it in the drizzle on a bridge overlooking a dramatic ravine. I swooned over my first