Heaven & earth

This fine dish for a wet day was taught to me by Father Rainer Verborg, a monk at Ampleforth Abbey, when I was there for a day’s filming. I had never come across the dish before and loved the name’s evocative reference to its ingredients. I followed Father Rainer through the orchards and the vision of the back of his black robe speeding purposefully through the damp misty rows of apples has haunted me strangely ever since. Despite