Osso buceo

Fiddling out the marrow from any shin bone is a delight I go about with the concentration of a chimp at a termite mound. Veal is a particular favourite and something that is at last back on the British plate, due to the kinder practices of British rose veal farming.

I am constantly reminded of the joys of Italian cooking when just a few ingredients come together with such effect - and this is a great dish to use up the abundant tomatoes of late summer, by which time the bull calves