Warm smoked mackerel with celeriac remoulade

This is the kind of thing I love to eat at home on one of those unexplainably relaxed and scruffy days, when small beakers of wine keep being poured; the kind of day you’d happily wear that pair of trousers that you’d never wear in public. This is simple to scrabble together, punchy in taste and has a wonderful combination of soft and crunchy textures. Perfect!

Smoked mackerel is nice,

but twice nicer when warmed,

and it is with this dish

tha