Mango milkshake

Small, vividly yellow Alfonso mangoes from India, lovingly packed in a box with gaudy shredded paper, are one of the high points of the year when they come into season in late spring. Sticky-chinned and grinning, I love to suck the pulp through a cut in the skin, having massaged the contents to mush. If this is all a bit too messy, here is a delicious alternative that I grew fat on in Delhi. The addition of condensed milk is essential.