I learned this decadent sofrito from world-class cheesemonger Carlos Souffrant when we were making dozens of pans of paella over an open grill on the patio at Zingerman’s Deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Carlos has an incredible palate, and when I was just starting I’d bring him little bites of what I was making just so he would describe the flavor to me. He gave me a language to articulate flavors and identify the tiny differences in taste, making me a stronger cook. I am fore