This recipe is a classic from the Piedmont which has, quite rightly, spread throughout the rest of the country and beyond. Roast veal served pink and cold, with a sauce made of tuna, capers, anchovies and homemade mayonnaise; it makes a wonderful main course, but for me it is best served amongst a selection of antipasti to share, with lovely homemade giardiniera (pickled vegetables). I prefer the veal girello cut of meat, and I usually opt for a canned tuna in extra virgin olive oil. My take on the classic vitello tonnato is slightly unconventional, as I soak the veal overnight in brine and steam it. This results in a consistent veal texture which will be perfectly pink and won’t lose blood when cut. It does not need to be dressed with salt and pepper.