Leafing through the Mexican cookbook Hartwood: Bright, Wild Flavors from the Edge of the Yucatán, I stumbled upon a papaya salad. I’m not much of a papaya fan. Cut in half it looks like an alien has laid eggs inside it, and its flavor is that of bland melon. I mean, just use real melon—it’s way more assertive. In the recipe, Chef Eric Werner recommended combining papaya with grapefruit. Because I truly believe in his cooking skills, I
