Fish Pie with Steamed Leeks

There are a few vegetables that improve after braising for a long time. As far as I’m concerned, leeks deserve the number-one spot. The French have known this since forever and serve leeks on their own as a starter called poireaux vinaigrette. The soft-braised leeks are served in big chunks—either warm or cold—and covered in a sharp, fresh mustard vinaigrette. This fish pie also almost brings me to tears; the English often make it with spinach, but a pile of those soft-braised leeks