La Salsa Doppia

You can still see the huge salt-glaze dishes made in Grottaglie in which the pasta for the family was poured, dressed and then despatched, each member attacking it with a fork. Ancient practice, found equally among Cycladic Greeks – the fork was your own, the communal plate was smaller. In the Salento this custom has vanished, except perhaps among old wild countrymen, still snaring, cooking and eating badger and foxes. But the manner of presenting the pasta remains the same; it must present