Fritto Misto di Funghi, Cervella, Zucchini e Carciofi

Old-fashioned restaurants like Sabatini and Da Camillo in Florence reveal a kind of genius in these delicate frying operations. But if you happen to arrive early you will have to wait until the usual clientele appear — the cooks and camerieri will be feasting in the kitchen while the huge cauldron of oil is heating.

The young boletus caps are sliced across, passed rapidly under t