The symbiosis which exists between fungi and tree root can also crop up in ordinary life: I am thinking of that butcher in Garda-sul-Lago with his maize-fattened chickens and young turkeys, who had to be dragged from La Candida’s bar to unhand the poultry. The plump breasts of his birds reminded one of Edwardian mono-bosoms. The situation he was obliged to leave was dominoes in cheerful company well heated by a terracotta stove. His poultry shop was cold and it was snowing.

Acquire half a breast of turkey, to include the wing, weighing about 1 kilo (2¼ lb).

This is braised entire in a mixture of olive oil and butter in a heavy pan, that is: browned with 2 slightly crushed unpeeled cloves of garlic and a sprig of thyme, then flared with Vecchia Romagna. Pour into the pan a glass of Orvieto secco and cook, tightly covered, on a fairly low heat on an asbestos mat to spread it for, say, 40 minutes, basting occasionally. At half time add a handful of rinsed capers, or some juvenile mushrooms already simmered in butter. Serve with a salad of radicchio rosso and passato di patate.