Spicy Mutton Kebabs

‘Kebab’ simply means grilled food. Not so simply, the grilled food family in Turkey is enormous and not to be trifled with. ocakbaşı are restaurants organised around a central grill, where kebabs are made in front of your eyes. ‘The important thing is the meat!’ explains Hamit, from Zübeyir ocakbaşı, a benchmark institution in Istanbul. It has to be very good quality, obviously, and a little fatty: allow 30% sheep tail fat in the total weight cooked. Kebabs are served w