Twenty years ago the Troisgros brothers introduced this dish to the international restaurant-going cognoscenti by serving it very publicly as part of a memorable feast (which also included a truffled soup en croûte by Bocuse) to President Valéry Giscard d'Estaing. It was their reworking of a Loire speciality which used whatever river fish were to hand in combination with creamed sorrel.
The original recipe and innumerable subsequent derivativ