Squabs are not so much pigeons as plump domesticated doves. Until recently they were imported from France, which made them very expensive. However, they are now reared in Britain and are consequently cheaper. If you cannot get any, this recipe also works well with poussin. In either case you will need one bird per person and, since you will be deep-frying, it may be better to make this a dish you cook for two.
You could serve the squabs with pancakes like Peking Duck, but try Chinese 'seaweed' instead. Of course, this is not seaweed at all, but finely sliced greens.
This recipe was developed by Juliet Peston, my co-chef at the restaurant for seven years.