Lokshen Kugel with Forest Fruits

Wild berries and orchard fruits abound in the forests and villages of Eastern Europe, and this kugel, studded with juicy cherries, plums, and berries perfumed with citrus and cinnamon, is a throwback to the version our great-grandmothers might have made.

We like to use spelt noodles which are higher in protein and lower in refined starch than egg noodles, and to rely mostly on the natural sugars in the fruit for sweetness.

To make it ahead, chill the baked kugel in the tin o