I first had this soup, cooked by the now famous chef Ruth Rogers, in her Chelsea flat forty-odd years ago. We were both little-known cooks with our own embryonic restaurants – both of which eventually had Michelin stars. I sold mine after twenty-five years, but hers, The River Café, is still going strong and is as good as ever. That soup was a revelation, dominated by the cabbage and kale (she used the dark cavo