Years ago, I lived in Paris where twice a week I ate at Le Sancerre near Abbesses Métro with my two (eventually I’d make more) friends David and Bex. My order was always the Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée, which, as well as being the cheapest thing on the menu, was also topped with a heart-attack-inducing molten mountain of cheese. This is a classic with a more reasonable amount of Comté.