Sautéed Mixed So-Called Wild Mushrooms

The mushrooms that we buy as wild—shiitake, porcini, morel, crimini, oyster, portobello—are sometimes truly wild, but mostly come from spores that have been acclimated to special commercial cultivation benches. They are still very nice but many have lost the intense flavor of their ancestors, missing as they do the forest floor. This preparation is excellent with red meats.