In China, ham is a salted pork leg and is known as huo tui, or “fire leg, ” to indicate it has been treated and cured. Regional hams exist, but none has the prestige of either the Jinhua hams from the Shanghai region or the Yunnan hams from the far western province of the same name. To taste these hard, salty hams where they are made is a treat. They are not at all like the highly regarded prosciutti of Italy or serrano hams of Spain, though both are often wrongly suggested as