Steamed Hairy Melon Soup

This classic preparation of Guangzhou is gradually disappearing, the victim of impatience. When prepared traditionally, the zucchini-like hairy melons, with their fuzzy skins, are steamed to become individual tureens of soup. The melons themselves are versatile and can also be baked, boiled, fried, or stuffed. They are small, about a foot long, and slender. For this preparation, they should be used as soon as possible after they are harvested from their vines. In fact, in the past, many Gua