Old Water Duck

In this classic of the Chiu Chow kitchen (see Part 2 Lesson 6), a simple dish is made elegant by its master sauce, known by the Chiu Chow as lo soi, or “old water.” This preparation is handed down from generation to generation, and in the many Chiu Chow restaurants throughout Hong Kong, it is known as lo soi among the Cantonese as well.

It is one of the great dishes of the Chiu Chow table that begins with a basic stock, and though du