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There are as many different preparations of kolokythokeftedes as there are cooks in Greece—and I am not exaggerating. Throughout the summer this very popular meze is served in taverns all over the country. With cold wine or beer, Greeks nibble on kolokythokeftedes until the main courses arrive. The fried patties have to be very crunchy, with a soft, fresh center. This recipe is adapted from the patties served at Magazes, my friend Stephanos Alexandrou’s fish tavern on Kea.