Pistou

This French version of pesto contains no pine nuts—or any other nut, for that matter. Chef Gras insists on pounding the ingredients in a mortar, and the wonderful pictures of the bruised basil in the large marble mortar are mouthwatering. I have heard all the arguments before in Genoa, the capital of pesto. If you have the patience and strength, by all means follow his instructions! (I still use my blender.)