When Cora Relova promised that her mother, Loreto Del Mundo-Relova, would make guinataang hipon for me, my friend Becky Villegas, a famous baker and cook in Manila, groaned with envy and pleaded to come with me. In my mind, guinataang hipon was shrimp cooked in coconut broth—like a Malaysian laksa—but to my surprise, it was really shrimp fried in latik, coconut milk cooked until the oil is extracted. It was not only delicious, but it came to the table beaut
