Periwinkles are small snails and are called cojol in the Philippines. In Bicol, all kinds of snails are traditionally cooked in coconut milk to create a rich but delicate sauce laced with subtle heat from chiles. It is a culinary experience to successfully suck the snail out of the shell and retain one’s composure. At the restaurant, Romy tactfully provides toothpicks for people who are seriously snail-challenged. Be sure to use the freshest periwinkles—you may need to special-order them from a reputable seafood supplier.