[In highest season from October to the beginning of February; in perfection about Christmas.]
When this fish is large the head and shoulders are sufficient for a handsome dish, and they contain all the choicer portion of it, though not so much substantial eating as the middle of the body, which, in consequence, is generally preferred to them by the frugal housekeeper. Wash the fish, and cleanse the inside, and the back-bone in particular, with the most scrupulous care; lay it into the fish-kettle and cover it well with cold water mixed with
Moderate size, 20 to 30 minutes. Large, ½ to ¾ hour.
* This should be done by setting the fish-plate across the kettle for a minute or two.